History of Tie Dye
- Lena Hayes
- Oct 28, 2019
- 3 min read
Hey guys!
I am not sure if anyone else has noticed, but a fashion trend that has been on the rise is tie dye t-shirts. Crop tops, vintage shirts with faded dye and incredible blends of colors can be spotted all over campus. I think the historical context of the tie dye is important to recognize where it came from and understand the potential messages wearing it may sending.
Although the phrase “tie dye” was coined in the 1960’s and is often associated with counterculture and crazy concerts, it actually is dated back much earlier in history. Tie dye has been recorded all the way back to Asian and South American cultures in 500 to 800 A.D. These early tie dye shirt were colored with natural dyes like berries, indigo, corn, and other plants and materials. They were tied and boiled with the dye in order to color the shirt and create complex and colorful patterns.

In order for tie dye to have it’s well know colors and white or blank areas without dye, a technique called resist dyeing is use. Shibori, a Japanese term that encompasses a wide variety of resist-dyeing techniques, was the historical basis for modern day tie dyeing. Artists would use different materials like wax, stitching, wood, clay, and numerous other materials in order to “protect” specific portions of the fabric from the dye and give it the characteristic patterns that made it famous. Another type of coloring that developed was tsujigahana. This process used a type of Chinese ink known as Sumi. Artists would paint a design on material with ink and then color the entire shirt. This would make the original design darker and make a colored shirt. These were very valuable in Chinese culture.
The first record of tie-dye in the United States was in 1901. Professor Charles E. Pellow showed his students tie-dyed muslin cloth, gave a lecture on tie-dyes in different cultures, and gave a live demonstration of how the tie-dye technique was commonly done. This set the stage for tie dye to rise as a part of American culture in the 1960’s and 70’s. Rock stars like Janis Joplin and John Sebastian helped spread the popularity of tie dye t-shirts as a sign of unique independence. These colorful shirts became a staple in the hippie movement, as pictured in many photos from the famous Woodstock festival.Tie dye became a symbol for non conformity, smoking weed, and promiscuity.

With this history in mind, I think it is interesting to compare how tie dye was viewed in the past to how it is in today’s culture. I personally still think there is a slight connotation with the popular drugs that were used during the hippie movement. I know that from personal experience, if you’re walking around in a tie dye Grateful Dead shirt, some people may ask you if you smoke a lot or are trying to be a hippie. I think on the other hand, the type of tie dye that someone is wearing influences how people react to it. I think monotone tie dye shirts with more subdued colors are considered on trend, and a vintage look is appreciated. Additionally, tie dye has become a fun craft that most people do, not a political statement. Personally, I think tie dye is a fun way to show off your fun personality or your favorite bands. Although we can’t control how people react to tie dye, I think the rising popularity of the colorful statement pieces is a great thing and should continue in fashion!
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